Surf wave

All surf is created by waves, but not all surf is created equally...

Surf quality varies considerably. Waves breaking in the surf zone can be described as chop, wind waves, ground swell and strong ground swell; these waves can be distinguished by period:

Period is a key factor describing wave quality. As period increases the wave becomes faster, more energetic and affects deeper water--a higher period wave carries more punch. Most surfers seek ground swells, especially strong ground swells, because the greater energy affecting deeper water produces larger more powerful breaking waves.

Another important quality feature for kayak surfers is wave height from swell data and breaking wave height. Swell data provides the average height for the largest third of waves passing a buoy or other recording station. Reported breaking wave height can vary considerably depending on the standard applied, whether measuring the amplitude--trough to crest--or measuring from the back of the wave. Different standards apply in different locations. Surf described as ten feet in Hawaii might shock someone used to wave height descriptions from southern California...

Local wind direction and intensity affects surf quality...

Wave models are used to predict general surf and swell quality...

High quality surf is found in unique locations and is formed by specific features and conditions. Geographical location has an enormous impact on typical wave quality encountered by surf kayakers. For example, how does wave quality generally differ between the west and east coast of the US and why?...

Wave forecasting:

Pacific Ocean NOAA Wave Models: [1]

NOAA WAVE WATCH III: [2]

Navy Swell: [3]]

See Kayak surfing