Drysuit
From KayakWiki
Burping a Drysuit
Burping refers to the process of getting excess air out of a drysuit.
If there is too much air in the suit, it will interfere with movement when paddling. In addition, with air in the suit, there exists the possibility that if you end up swimming, the air can go into the legs of the suit and you will find yourself in a condition where you can't control the position of your legs in or under water. For these reasons, you should always burp your suit.
There are a couple of techniques used. Some just crouch down and wrap their arms around the suit to force air up to the shoulders while sticking a finger under the neck seal to release the air. Others will wade into calm water until they are up to their shoulders and release the neck seal. The latter is the most effective technique and will also test the waterproofness of the suit (did you close the relief zipper?) at the same time.
A full body garment built to provide immersion protection and reduce the risk of hypothermia or worse: cold shock. Think: waterproof nylon coveralls. They are made of waterproof material which keeps the paddler dry in the event of a capsize. A drysuit provides almost no insulation by itself so you should wear an insulating layer such as fleece or polypro under the suit. With proper insulation a drysuit will provide more safety than a wetsuit, they can also be more comfortable, but a good one is very expensive. The best drysuits are made out of GoreTex or a similar waterproof breathable fabric so that they breath when you are paddling hard or wearing it in warm air temperatures.
Drysuit gaskets are typically a latex rubber seal that fit tightly around your neck, wrists and ankles. Some drysuits come with integrated GoreTex, neoprene or latex booties (socks, actually) so an ankle seal is unnecessary. Full drysuit feet need care not to puncture them when getting changed, and have the one disadvantage that if you do get water inside your suit, you can't stick a finger up the ankle seal to let it out. Sunscreen, insect repellents, lotions, high heat and humidity, extreme dryness, and exhaust fumes from cars or gas appliances can destroy or shorten the life of gaskets.
Occasionally, drysuit gaskets may be too tight. Latex gaskets are intended to fit snug; they will stretch a little with use. If they are too tight, gasket trimming can alleviate this. Stretching a gasket over a form creates microscopic tears, and can shorten the gasket's life.
Gaskets typically need replacement every season or every other season. Protect gaskets from UV degradation with UV protectant occasionally.
If you have latex booties on your drysuit, you'll find it difficult to slide your feet into or out of your footwear, since the latex is sticky. Get a thin pair of liner socks, polypro or nylon, and cover the latex bootie with them. They'll then slide in and out easily.
[edit] See also
Links to Dry Suit makers that may be of interest if you are considering purchase:
http://www.kokatat.com/ Goretex® and non breathing dry suits
- Goretex® start at US$625 and non-breathing fabric suits at about US$400.
http://www.ravenspring.co.uk/system/index.html Economical source of drysuits and other technical clothing.
http://www.trident-uk.com/ Good and relatively inexpensive (£200) drysuits in Gateshead, NE England - also do a good repair service for their own and other makes.
http://www.chillcheater.com/products/shop.asp Reed Chillcheater is a tough stretchy material - neck seals in particular last a lot longer than latex, but if you have a big head (or a small neck) they can be quite a struggle.
